For years, my comings and goings to this Catalan city were concentrated on the rich, merchant history. The leisure of la Rambla Street was the synonym of evening free time. The views that Cristopher Columbus is looking at were the rest for the sun-burnt eyes. And the magic of the fountains was, well… magic! But then something happened – and since then this is on the first place.

Nameless harpist in Guell Park

It was one of these hot days, when you didn’t really want to walk too much. Our last point was the famous Guell Park. Our bus was old, making noises – it didn’t really want to climb up the steep street. But somehow it managed, stopped, let us out.

The air was sizzling either with the heat or the life of the insects around us. Walking to the entrance of the park we saw many more routes leading here and there – the public spaces. But they were supposed to enter, so I led my group to the lady who let them in. The first thing my tourists were supposed to see were the magical, rainbow benches of the top of the edifice. Only near the balcony you could see Barcelona, the buildings, and the lizard – but that is a story for another time.

I took my water, a book and searched for a spot to read. The guides get to take sb somewhere but not always enter with them. The path let me to the pillars where someone was sitting with an instrument – cleaning it or preparing for a performance. Book and music – why not – much better than the earphones.

The instrument was strange – looked like a harp but maybe from some African, forgotten village. The rug definitely made you think of these origins. All of it forgotten on a bench, in a shadow, a respite from the heat.

I do not remember reading the first sentence. I suppose the harpist was faster than me. You cannot really describe sitting among lavish greenery, next to the yellow like sand columns in the Gaudi style, listening to this instrument resonating from everything around us. I bought all the CDs that he had and I am happy to see that he moved on from Parc Guell (here is a link for his webpage).

Not so legal street sellers

The portable boutique selling some simple souvenirs. Whether it be bags or wooden toy train made of letters. In Barcelona you get magnets and beautiful Gaudi lizards, or colourful calligraphy paintings. My favourite still is an umbrella full of earrings styled in a Gaudi or mosaic way.

The ingenuity of the stalls they make is absolutely wonderful! The real thing is recreated with a piece of carton-box, plastic, or some other, cheap thing (like an umbrella!).

I never knew why until once I heard this jiggling behind me. It was next to Barcelona’s Fountains and it was not X-mas. I turned around and saw three or four young men running away with bags in their hands or on their backs. They must have had some metal keychains or other things – this is what was making all this noise. Then I noticed all these portable displays turning into briefcases or just folded when it was time to move. And did they move quickly, yes they did. Because 3 minutes later there were some police officers strolling on a walk. Conscious probably, of the things that just happened here, but still walking with no hurry. What a wonderful ecosystem!

Here you will find more photos and a nice article

Montjüic

The hills adjacent to the port of Barcelona are a landmark of this city. There is a whole Olympic village there – with stadiums and towers. You can get there on foot, with public transport or by car but I recommend trying the cable car. It goes over the port and water. The experience is great, views – amazing.

Try to make some time to visit Montjüic. I will tell you only this – from the port, through the hills to the Magic Fountains – that’s a walk! You will visit all the attractions on your way but do not visit Montjüic only for this!

It is a great green space, full of alleys and viewpoints. You honestly cannot decide which one you like the most. It is a place to be enjoyed, not ticked off the list.

La Rambla

Barcelona started to exist as a port. Like in all ports there was a main road leading to it – it gave this characteristic, fan urban landscape to the city. Somewhere on the way there was an old town, surrounded by walls, with some townhouses and a church.

This road I describe is called La Rambla.

Today it is bustling with life during the day and even more in the evening! You can buy Catalan art there – dancing tangos or fighting with the bulls – their favourite black and red colours mixed. There is a lot of souvenirs in terrible prices – but you do not pay for looking thankfully.

In the side alleys there are bars filled with cold drinks and Spanish tapas. There is also some history – this old town – now mixed with new places, galleries, squares. You can say it is hidden, but not really. It is just easy to get lost there.
If you like to wander around, window-shopping, find junk next to the really cool stuff. If you like small galleries and surprises – like some courtyard that you find by surprise – this I s a place. La Rambla and its surroundings.

The port

It is a part of La Rambla but I think it is worth its separate point. It is simply well planned and attractive for strolls. There is a shopping centre – Maremaginum – connected with land by a series of moving platforms. There are paths overshadowed by trees. And if you walk just far enough there is even a beach where you can rest for a moment (Playa San Sebastian).

No wonder that Christopher Columbus likes this place as well. Standing on his column at the beginning of La Rambla he would probably like to step down and go for a walk himself.

Strange trees

Not that far from La Rambla and the Port is another street. You may pass it on your ground way to Montjüic or notice it when you go to the Maritime Museum.

Musum itself is a treat with wonderful displays that you can see from the outside and even better inside. Looking at these boats, lines, masts, and sails everyone would feel the sailor inside.

Street art is a treat as well. Maybe this is what caught your eye – delicate metal curves that adorn the middle of the street. Spain is full of these. France like its flowers by Spain loves the sculptures. You may have a lot of fun looking for the one you like most.

What caught me there were the trees. Strange bottle-shaped trees that somehow bear the same name as I learned later. I have no green thumb, but I do appreciate nature. And this small stretch of Benjamin Gardens, next to the Museum, with some street art and the sea is a perfect place to sit for a while and relax before upcoming attractions.

Sagrada Familia

I have very mixed feeling about this edifice. I understand why it is so famous – Gaudi was brilliant inventing it. You can spend hours walking around it and noticing small details. Yet, it is just sooo much! Your eyes start to hurt, there is nothing straight, just chaos.

Inside is better. The columns look like the trunks of some trees standing here since the beginning of time. Light playing in the stained glass does wonders with the simple interior. The only decoration is the shape and the colour. It is fascinating – you can even like one part of the church more than another just because this one is red, and another blue. And 3 hours later you hate the one you liked before, because your mood or the light changed.

I think I might have hated it for a while, but it was me probably, not seeing something. How else would you explain that now it is my second favourite, Gaudi place in Barcelona!
Heed my advice here. I know the price and the number of people may be frightening but try to think about seeing Sagrada inside. You will have a full experience and there is just something there, that you will never forget.

Magic fountains

I know, it is typical! This is why it is number eight and not somewhere in front. But a mix of dancing water, light and music is just beautiful.

I tried to watch it from up close or from far away up the stairs. My favourite spot is on the balcony or somewhere close to the first level of stairs. You are close but far enough to take the whole thing in.

Panelletes

Coffee tastes better with something sweet next to it, but it must be just a morsel. Otherwise the bitter taste is spoiled.
Being a coffee junkie, I tend to search for something that can go with it.

Panelletes were a surprise for me. You can typically find them in the months close to the 1st November since it is a sweet served for the All Saints Day. But if you are lucky enough…
Back to the surprise – you may not know but I hate marzipan. Grounded almond with sugar doesn’t work well with my taste buds. And this is what is inside of the cute small balls!!! I bought them because they looked like balls of nuts – roasted pine nuts are the most common coating and I love pine nuts. Then I tasted it – felt a tinge od disappointment, and then the filling changed what I feel about marzipan. Because it is not typical!!! Maybe it is the lemon or potato ingredients. Maybe the products used in the recipe were just fresh. Maybe it was grandma’s secrets – I don’t know. But if marzipan – Barcelona, Spain, only!

The coast

Well, there are a lot of things that you can do around Barcelona. You would need a car or you can go with an organized trip, but there is plenty.

And the savage coast, full of treacherous stones and pine trees ready to fall is spectacular. The villages hidden in habitable places are adorable.

I will tell you more about some of them (most famous too) but you will have to go here (coming soon).